Page 1 follows: TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION................. 2 Starting the Game............ 3 Making Selections............ 3 Entering Your Name........... 3 Using the Newspaper.......... 3 2. THE GARAGE................... 4 Cars......................... 6 Car Info..................... 6 Parts........................ 6 Check Out Newspapers......... 7 Squelch It/Catch Some Tunes.. 7 Time to Quit................. 7 Calendar..................... 7 Hit the Street............... 8 Pop the Hood................. 8 Pop the Hood - Parts......... 8 Pop the Hood - Tune.......... 9 Change Transmission.......... 10 Change Tires................. 10 Stickers..................... 11 Bumpers...................... 11 The Roof..................... 11 New Paint Job................ 11 Wanna Tank................... 11 The Pump..................... 12 3. THE DRIVE-IN................. 14 Challenging Drivers to Races. 14 Types of Races............... 14 Bets......................... 15 Returning to the Garage...... 16 Checking Out the Competition. 16 4. DRIVING...................... 16 Off the Mark................. 16 Changing Speed............... 18 Blowing Your Engine.......... 18 Dropping a Transmisiion...... 18 Changing Gears............... 18 Steering..................... 18 Bumping and Passing.......... 19 The Police................... 19 Crashing..................... 19 5. WINNING...................... 20 A Race....................... 20 The Game..................... 20 6. HINTS & TIPS................. 22 7. CAR SPECIFICATIONS........... (see STROD2.DOC) 8. REFERENCE CARD............... (see STROD.DOC) Page 2 follows: INTRODUCTION Ok, so shool's out for the summer. So how are you gonna spend your time? Workin' for old man Finnegan in his hardware store? Naw, though you do need the cash. Twistin' the nights away at the soda shop? Naw, not very exciting. What about those measly few bucks in your pocket? You gonna spend them the first week to impress Becky Sue? Naw, she still wouldn't look at you. What say you put your time and your bucks to good use this summer. You're a good grease-monkey and a better driver. Buy an old crate, soup it up, and cruise down to Bob's Drive-In. There's always some action there. Some real action: racing. You know you can beat half of those twerps already. And if you can raise some quick cash and buy a better rod, you can beat the rest. You know with the right car you can beat the king. Then you'll have some cash and Becky Sue. Page 3 follows: STARTING THE GAME You can play Street Rod either from your hard drive or from a floppy drive. For more specific instructions, refer to the Street Rod Reference Card. MAKING SELECTIONS You can play Street Rod using one of three control devices: a keyboard, a mouse, or a joystick. To make a selection on the screen, move the cursor over the part of the screen that you want to select. The cursor looks like a wrench in the garage, and like a hand elsewhere. If you're using the keyboard, the cursor keys and the numeric keypad are used to moce the cursor. You'll know that the cursor is in the right place when you see a message at the bottom of the screen that is the same as the action you want to do. You then must press the "selector" for the control device that you're using. The selector for the mouse is the left mouse button; for the joystick, it's the fire button; for the keyboard, it's the space bar. You can also use the Return/Enter key to make some choices. When one of the options on the screen is surrounded by a highlighted box, you can select that choice by pressing the Return/Enter key. If you want to select some other choice, just move the cursor and press the selector. Many choices can also be activated by special keys on the keyboard. Refer to the Street Rod Reference Card for details. ENTERING YOUR NAME Use the keyboard to enter the name you want to use during the play of the game. When you save a game it will use the name you enter here. When you're done, select OK to begin playing Street Rod. USING THE NEWSPAPER The first thing you gotta do is look through the paper for an old crate that you can afford. Move the cursor to the USED CARS section of the newspaper and press the selector. You'll see the first page of the car section of the classifieds. You can go to the next page by moving the cursor to the column on the right side of the page and pressing the selector. Likewise, you can get to the previous page by doing the same thing on the left column. The new car section flows into the car parts section of the paper. Page 4 follows: Select a car that you can afford. You will be given the option to see it before you buy it, or you can buy it without looking at it. After you buy a car, you will automatically go to the garage. If you want to got to the garage without buying a car, move the cursor to the picture of the garage in the lower right corner of the screen and press the selector. You can also use the paper to buy parts later in the game. Just move the cursor to the AUTO PARTS heading and press the selector. You can go to the next page and previous pages and return to the garage in the same way you did it when you bought your car. If you've selected the paper in error, you can also get back to the garage by selecting the front page. THE GARAGE The garage is where you'll hang out between races. Go there to customize your rod, or to repair any damage caused by your lousy driving. The cursor looks like a wrench in the garage. You make choices in the garage by moving the wrench around the screen. As you point to an object with the top of the wrench, you'll see messages appear below the garage picture. You can choose to do what a message says by pressing the selector. Each of these choices is explained on the next several pages. Watch your wad - just about everything cost. Watch the calendar, too - any work you do on your car is gonna take time. Page 6 follows: CARS If you own more than 1 car, you can switch between them by moving the wrench over the strip on the wall showing the name of the car and choosing CARS. You'll see a menu listing all the cars you own. Move the cursor to the car you want to work on and press the selector to highlight it. Then select SWITCH IT. The car that's in the garage will be yanked out and replaced by the one you've selected. By selecting SELL IT, you can sell the highlighted car. A bit of haggling over the price is allowed and can get you more money, but takes time you could use for racing. Type in an initial offer at the prompt and select MAKE OFFER. Depending on the price, the buyer will either reject your offer or make a counter offer. If the buyer rejects your offer, you can counter with a lower price and bargain from that new price. CAR INFO To check out what parts are on your car, move the wrench over the pad on the table, select CAR INFO, and you'll find out. You'll also get information about how much gas is in the tank, the maximum speed of your car, and the percentage of wear and tear on your parts. Keep a close eye on the percentage of wear on your parts, 'cause driving with worn-out parts can result in a crash. All parts, from the engine to the carburetor, will wear down as you use them, and the time it takes to wear out varies with each part. PARTS To see what the parts you own that are not on your car, move the wrench over the clipboard hanging on the wall and select PARTS. You can also get rid of any extra parts by choosing the part you want to sell from the menu. Highlight the chosen part with the cursor and select SELL IT, and you will be made an offer for the part. To accept the offer, select OK, otherwise select NO THANKS. The price that you'll be offered for the part will depend on its original price when new and the amount of wear and tear on it. Parts that are worn past a certain level won't be worth anything. Tires, whether they're new or used, can't be resold. Page 7 follows: CHECK OUT NEWSPAPERS If you need some new parts, or a new car, move the wrench over the papers you've left on the floor, select CHECK OUT NEWSPAPERS and select the part or car you want just like you did at the beginning of the game (See USING THE NEWSPAPER). SQUELCH IT/CATCH SOME TUNES If the radio's on and you'd like to turn it off, move the cursor to the radio on the top shelf until you see the message SQUELCH IT. Press the selector. This turns off the music but leaves the other sound effects on. If the radio's off and you want to turn it back on, the message you'll see will be CATCH SOME TUNES. TIME TO QUIT If you want to save a game, start a new game, restart an old game, or just plain quit, move the wrench over the clock and select TIME TO QUIT. You can have more than 1 saved game, but be sure to use different names. For specific instructions, refer to the Street Rod Reference Card. CALENDAR Shool starts September 15 - if you're gonna beat the king you'd better not let the summer slip by too fast. If you move the wrench over the calendar on the wall and press the selector you'll see what the date is. The current date has a box around it; the beginning and ending dates for the game are circled. Page 8 follows: HIT THE STREET When you're ready to head to Bob's Drive-In for a little action, move the wrench outside and select HIT THE STREET. You'll cruise on down there. You can skip the cruising by pressing the selector. POP THE HOOD You can install new parts under the hood by moving the wrench over the hood and selecting POP THE HOOD. Once you've popped the hood, you'll see a window showing you what engine, manifold, and carburetor are in the car. You can change any of the three, or tune the engine. POP THE HOOD - PARTS Once you've popped the hood, to replace a part you'll first have to remove the old part. Do this by moving the wrench over the bolts holding the part in, and pressing the selector twice to take off the bolt. When all bolts holding a part down have been removed, the part will disappear. If you remove a bolt by mistake, just press the selector on the empty hole, and the bolt will return. Press the selector twice on the bolt to fasten it back in. You'll have to remove the carb to get to the manifold, and both of those parts to get to the engine block. You also have to disconnect the wires leading to the engine block to remove it. Page 9 follows: When you put the engine back together, you have to replace the parts in the reverse order that they were removed, and connect the engine wiring. To put parts back into your car, move the wrench over PARTS and press the selector. You'll see a menu listing what you have available to be installed next. If you want a part that's not listed in the menu, this would be a good time to buy it from the newspaper (USING THE NEWSPAPER). Highlight the part you want and select CHANGE. The part and the bolts needed for it will appear in their proper place. Once again, you have to press the selector twice one each bolt to torque it down. Make sure you choose parts that will fit on your car. Different makes of engines and parts will only fit on certain car types. For example, you can only put a GM engine in a Chevy. Read the description of the part in the paper carefully before you buy it. See the Street Rod Reference Card for more details. Some parts fit all cars. If you try HIT THE STREET and you get a message that your car's not running, check that all parts are in place and that all bolts are securely tightened to the engine and transmission. POP THE HOOD - TUNE If you select TUNE after you've popped the hood, you will see a picture of the timing belt for your car. If you move the wrench over the up arrow and press the selector, you'll retard the engine. If you move it over the down arrow and press the selector you'll advance the engine. In general terms, a retarded engine is better for road racing. The red notch marks a position that's about evenly split between advanced and retarded. You can only tune when all parts are in place and all bolts securely tightened. Page 10 follows: CHANGE TRANSMISSION To put a different transmission in your car, move the wrench under the middle of your car and choose CHANGE TRANSMISSION. The transmission will appear on the screen. You can remove it, select another transmission, and replace it just like you do for parts under the hood. Just as for other parts, make sure you get the right transmission for your make of car. You have a choice of four types of transmissions: automatic, three speed, four speed, and four speed racing. The performance and acceleration characteristics increase as you move from the automatic to the four speed racing. So does the cost. An automatic transmission, while being the easiest to drive (you only have to shift from neutral to drive), is the slowest in terms of acceleration and maximum speed. You might want to choose a car with an automatic transmission at the beginning of a game when you're still inexperienced with driving and when the competition's fairly easy. Then, you can move up to the four speed racing as you improve your skill and the opponents get tougher. Like all other parts on your car, your transmission will show wear and tear according to how often you race. Refer to the CAR INFO clipboard in the garage to see the percentage of wear on your present transmission. Road races will wear down your parts more quickly than the drag races. CHANGE TIRES If you move the wrench over the jack and press the selector, you will be able to put new tires on your car. Choose the set you want to use from the parts menu. You can buy new tires from the newspaper. Remember that tires cannot be resold. So once you buy 'em, they're yours for keeps. Page 11 follows: STICKERS You can put a custom sticker on your car by moving the wrench over the little paint cans on the shelf and selecting STICKERS. Use the wrench and the selector to choose one of the available stickers. To remove a sticker you have to choose NEW PAINT JOB (see below). BUMPERS You can remove the front or rear bumper by moving the wrench over the bumper you want to remove and pressing the selector when you see the message BUMPER. You can replace a removed bumper in the same way. If a bumper's gone your car will be lighter and its wind resistance less, but it will be more likely to crash when bumped. You cannot strip the bumpers (or chop the roof) off of some of the cars. THE ROOF If you want to chop the roof, or restore a roof to its original condition, move the wrench over the roof and press the selector. Chopping the roof lightens your car and reduces its wind resistance, but takes a lot of time. NEW PAINT JOB If you want to change the color of your car, move the wrench over the spray can on the floor and select NEW PAINT JOB. As you move through the available colors, the spray can will change to show you the new color. When you see the color you want, select GO AHEAD. A new paint job will not only change the color of your car, but will cover any existing stickers. Note, that this feature will only work on computers with certain color options. WANNA TANK? When you need to get some fuel for the old gas-guzzler, move the wrench over the gas can on the floor and press the selector. If your tank's not full, you'll cruise over to the gas station. You can skip the cruising by pressing the selector. Keep an eye on your tank, 'cause if you run too long without getting gas, you might come up short in a race. Check with the CAR INFO clipboard in the garage to see how much gas you've got in your tank. Keep some dough on hand too - gas ain't free. Page 12 follows: THE PUMP Once at the station, you can pump your own gas or let the attendant do it for you. Of course, doing it yourself is cheaper but not as impressive to the gang. To pump it yourself, move the cursor over the handle on the first pump and press the selector. Then move the handle to the open gas cap in the side of your car and press the selector. If you're too slow, or just wait around for a bit, the attendant will do it for you. You've got to get some gas before you can leave the station. Page 14 follows: THE DRIVE-IN Bob's Drive-In's where it's at. While you can hang out here and check out the competition, the main reason to go to Bob's is to challenge other drivers to races. You can either drag race or road race. If you're good, you can win some bucks. If you're better, you can win the other guy's rod. If you're the best, you can beat the king. CHALLENGE DRIVERS TO RACES While you're at Bob's, other drivers will cruise past you. If you want to challenge any driver to a race, postion the cursor over his car and press the selctor. You can also call an opponent by moving the cursor over the guy leaning against the post and pressing the selector. You will see a list of everyone who's already driven by you since you've been at Bob's. Highlight the name of the driver you want to call and select CALL, and he'll cruise by. Select the arrows on the right side of the menu to scroll through the names. The single arrows scroll one line at a time, while the double arrows scroll one page at a time. TYPE OF RACES There are two kinds of races: drag races and road races. If you want to drag race, you'll race on a straight course that's about a quarter of a mile long. If you want to road race, you'll race on a winding course that's about two and a half miles long. Position the cursor over the type of race you want and hit the selector. Page 15 follows: Drag races test your reflexes in shifting and acceleration - basically how fast you can get off the line. It takes real skill to time your shifting and acceleration so that you get a good jump without blowing your engine or jumping the light. Usually, the guy who gets the jump at the start will have the advantage. Road races test your skill over a more diverse driving area. You'll need to control your speed as you hit blind turns and learn to downshift at the right times. If you brake too hard on a turn, your speed will drop like a rock, giving your opponent a chance to blow past you. If you don't brake hard enough, you'll be kissing dirt on the side of the road. BETS If you're drag racing, you can race for kicks or for dough. If you're raod racing, you can race for dough or for pink slips. If you race for pink slips and win, you'll get your opponent's car. If you lose, you'll have to go back to the paper for another car. To place a bet, move the cursor over the amount you want to bet and press the selector. If the other guy doesn't like that amount, you can try another bet with him before he drives off. Get to know your opponents and what bets they'll accept. Some guys will only accept a road race challenge after you've run a drag race. Others will race you on any terms. The best drivers, like the king, will only race you after you've had a few victories under your belt. If you challenge someone to a road race and he refuses, try challenging him to a drag race. It's likely that he'll accept. Some guys are impressed by how cool your car looks and will be more willing to race you. The better your rod looks (paint job, etc...), the cooler you'll be. Page 16 follows: RETURNING TO THE GARAGE You can return to the garage from the Drive-In by moving the cursor to the bottom of the screen. When you see the message BACK TO THE GARAGE press the selector and you'll cruise back. Once again, you can skip the cruising sequence by pressing the selector. CHECKING OUT THE COMPETITION You can see what another driver has under his hood by doing the same thing that you do in the garage to look under your hood: move the cursor over the opponent's hood and press the selector. A picture of his engine will appear on screen. Think carefully about what he's got under his hood. If his engine is bigger than yours, think twice about challenging him. But, if you've got the hustle and spunk, you just might want to race him anyway. DRIVING Driving is the same for both drag races and road races. When the light goes green, give 'er some gas, slip 'er into gear, and make tracks. You can steer, change speed, change gears, bump the other guy, and pass. You can even crash or be stopped by a cop. OFF THE MARK You have to wait until the light is green before you can move. If you start too soon the race will be cancelled. You won't lose anything, but you'll have to make another challenge. Page 18 follows: CHANGING SPEED How you accelerate or decelerate depends on the control device you're using. If you're using the keyboard, press the up arrow to accelerate and the down arrow to decelerate. If you're using a mouse, click the right mouse button to accelerate and drag the mouse towards you to decelerate. If you're using a joystick, push the joystick forward to accelerate and pull it back to decelerate. For more info, refer to the Street Rod Reference Card. BLOWING YOUR ENGINE If you crank your engine up too far you can blow it. If you have a tachometer in your rod, you will be able to see the number of engine RPM's; when the indicator goes into the red or shaded zone you're in danger of blowing your engine. If you blow an engine, you'll be placed back in the garage where you'll have to replace everything under the hood before you can hit the streets again. You'll lose any bet you might have made for the race, and you'll lose time and money for the parts. It's nearly impossible to blow your engine when you're using an automatic transmission, so you might want to consider this when you're green. DROPPING A TRANSMISSION If you keep the accelerator pressed while shifting gears (called "speed shifting") you increase the chance of dropping your transmission. If you drop it, you will have to go back to the garage for another. You can avoid having this happen by releasing the accelerator when you shift. With an automatic transmission, you can "speed shift" without fear of dropping the transmission. CHANGING GEARS If you've got a manual transmission, you can change gears by pressing the selector for the control device you're using. If you press the selector while you're accelerating, you'll go into the next higher gear. If you press it while decelerating, you'll go into the next lower gear. Refer to the Street Rod Reference Card for more details. STEERING You steer either by using the left and right cursor keys or by moving the mouse or joystick to the left and right. Page 19 follows: BUMPING AND PASSING You can pass your opponent's car if you are faster than he is. Once you pass him you'll see him in your two rear mirrors. You can also try to get an advantage by bumping him. You can bump him by pulling along side of him and steering towards him. Once you've successfully bumped him, he'll usually appear in your rearview mirror. Be careful, though - he can bump back. If you've removed your bumpers, your chances of crashing are greater. THE POLICE If you exceed the posted speed limit, there's a chance that a cop will come after you. When you hear a siren, you'll know that he's closing. If you slow down to the speed limit as soon as you hear the siren, the amount of your ticket will be fairly low. You can try to outrun him, but if you're not successful he'll pull you over and gove you a ticket the size of Texas. The faster you're going, the more you'll have to pay. Make sure you've got enough dough on hand to pay for the ticket, 'cause if you're short, you'll be hauled off to the slammer and the game will be over. CRASHING If you run off the highway or are bumped off by your opponent, you'll crash. When you crash, you'll be told how much it will cost to repair the damage. If you really wiped out, or if your car's been repaired several times before, you may only be able to get scrap value for your wreck. Otherwise, you can choose whether or not to repair your rod. If you junk it, you'll get whatever its scrap value is. If you repair it, the cost of the repairs will be deducted from your wad and you will be placed back in the garage, ready to go. (You'll only have stock tires, however.) Page 20 follows: It will cost more to repair your rod the faster you're going when you crash. You can drive off the road for a while, but you'll slow down and start accumulating damage. When the damage reaches a certain level, you'll crash. WINNING A RACE You win a race by being the first across the finish line. If you win, you'll see the time it took you to finish and your top speed. If you lose, you'll see the percentage of the race that you completed when your opponent crossed the finish line and your top speed. You'll also lose whatever you bet, which could be your rod. If you jump the light, the race is cancelled. Page 21 follows: THE GAME The king of the Drive-In owns the hottest rod around and has the best looking girlfriend. To win the game you have to beat the king before the summer is over. The king won't even agree to race you until you're good enough. So you'll have to race and win enough money to buy a great car or to get your car in the best shape possible. Once you're the best, you can become the king. HINTS AND TIPS 1) Retarding your engine gives you quicker acceleration in the lower gears (1st and 2nd), which is better for drag racing. 2) Advancing your engine gives you better acceleration in the higher gears (3rd and 4th), which is better for road racing. 3) Racing "JUST FOR KICKS" is a good way to practice your driving and check out opponents without risking any money, but don't take too many practice runs, or you'll waste valuable time. 4) Once you've successfully bumped your opponent and he falls behind (and appears in your rearview mirror), hit the gas to create the biggest lead possible. 5) If you vary your position on the road as you drive, you can block your opponent coming up from behind and keep him from passing you. Page 23 follows: 6) For a quicker jump off of the staring line, rev your engine while the light is red. Just as the light turns green, shift into first gear. This method will prevent any lag time that may occur when you shift from neutral to first gear. Be careful when you use this method, 'cause you could drop your transmission. 7) The guys at Bob's Drive-In are reall impressed by "cool" cars, so you might want to spiff up your street rod before you cruise down there. 8) When you first begin to play the game, it might be a good idea to pick a car with an automatic transmission so that you don't have to shift. It's almost impossible to blow your engine or drop your transmission when you're driving an automatic. After you get used to steering and driving, then you can get a car with a stick shift. 9) All parts used in your car will eventually wear out, so keep a close eye on them (you can check their status in the CAR INFO clipboard in the garage). A worn part can result in decreased performance or worse, a crash. So don't try to run your car into the ground, 'cause it could cost you a lot more in the long run. 10) Learn to balance your resources carefully. Remember that you only have the summer, 12 weeks, in order to beat the king, so try not to waste any time. Many times during the game, you'll have to decide whether to sacrifice time in order to gain other advantages such as money or racing experience. With a bit of practice and luck, you'll find the right balance and become the King Street Rodder. --- Presented by SKID ROW CAR SPECIFICATIONS 1932 Ford Deuce Coupe (2 door roadstar) Price: $460 Weight: 2203 lbs Total Produced: 520 Engine: Cast Iron L-head 8-cylinder Displacement: 221 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.06 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 5.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 65 @ 3400 R.P.M. 3 main bearings Mechanical valve lifters Carburetor: Special Ford Detroit lubricator: downdraft Transmission: Sliding gear with 3 forward gears and 1 reverse Wheelbase: 106 inches Length: 165.5 inches 1932 Ford Sedan (2 door Tudor sedan) Price: $500 Weight: 2508 lbs Total Produced: 57,930 Engine: Cast iron L-head 8-cylinder Displacement: 221 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.06 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 5.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 65 @ 3400 R.P.M. 3 main bearings Mechanical valve lifters Carburetor: Special Ford Detroit lubricator downdraft Transmission: Sliding gear with 3 forward gears and 1 reverse Wheelbase: 106 inches Length: 165.5 inches 1938 Chevrolet Master Deluxe (2 door sedan) Price: $750 Weight: 2915 lbs Total Produced: 186,233 Engine: Cast iron inline 6-cylinder with overhead valves Displacement: 216.5 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 6.25 : 1 Brake horsepower: 85 @ 3200 R.P.M. 4 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter 1V Model W1 Transmission: Floor shift manual with 3 forward gears and 1 reverse gear Wheelbase: 112.25 inches 1940 Chevrolet Coupe (2 door) Price: $699 Weight: 2915 lbs Total Produced: 66,431 Engine: Cast iron inline 6-cylinder with overhead valves Displacement: 216.5 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 6.25 : 1 Brake horsepower: 85 @ 3400 R.P.M. 4 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter IV Model W1-420S Transmission: Manual Synchromesh with 3 forward gears and 1 reverse. Wheelbase: 113 inches 1940 Chevrolet Roadster (2 door coupe) Price: #750 Weight: 2945 lbs Total Produced: 46,628 Engine: Cast iron V-Inline 6-cylinder with overhead valves Displacement: 216.5 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 6.25 : 1 Brake horsepower: 85 @ 3400 R.P.M. 4 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter IV Model W1-420S Transmission: Manual Synchromesh with 3 forward gears and 1 reverse Wheelbase: 113 inches 1940 Ford Deluxe (2 door Tudor Sedan) Price: $765.00 Weight: 2927 lbs Total Produced: 171,368 Engine: Cast iron V-Inline 8-cylinder Displacement: 221 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.06 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 6.15 : 1 Brake horsepower: 85 x 3800 R.P.M. 3 main brearings Mechanical valve lifters Carburetor: Chandler-Groves 21A-9510A, 2bbl downdraft Transmission: Sliding gear with 3 forward gears and 1 reverse Wheelbase: 112 inches Length: 188.25 inches 1949 Chevrolet Styleline (2 door sedan) Price: $1413 Weight: 3,070 lbs Total Produced: 69,398 Engine: Cast iron Inline 6-cylinder with overhead valves Displacement: 216.5 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 6.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 90 @ 3300 R.P.M. 4 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter 1-barrel Transmission: 3 speed Synchromesh Wheelbase: 115 in. Length: 197 in. 1949 Oldsmobile 88 (2 door club sedan) Price: $2050 Weight: 3585 lbs Total Produced: 28,707 Engine: Rocket V-8 with overhead valves Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.50 inches Compression Ratio: 7.25 : 1 Horsepower: 135 @ 3,600 R.P.M. Carburetor: dual downdraft fitted with automatic choke Transmission: Hydramatic transmission Wheelbase: 119.5 inches Length: 202 inches 1950 Pontiac Silver Streak (2 door sedan coupe) Price: $1742 Weight: 3464 lbs Total Produced: N.A. Engine: Cast iron L-head 8-cylinder Displacement: 268.2 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.375 x 3.75 inches Compression Ratio: 6.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 108 @ 3600 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter WCD-719-S 2 barrel Transmission: 3 speed Synchromesh with column shift Wheelbase: 120 in. Length: 202.5 in. 1952 Oldsmobile 88 (2 door sedan) Price: $2050 Weight: 3565 lbs Total Produced: 6,402 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 303 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.50 inches Compression Ratio: 7.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 145 @ 3600 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Hydraulic valve lifters Carburetor: Rochester model BB or Carter Transmission: 3-speed column shifted Wheelbase: 120 in. Length: 204 in. 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air Sport Coupe (2 door hardtop sport coupe) Price: $2067 Weight: 3195 lbs Total Produced: 185,562 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 265 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.00 inches Compression Ratio: 8.0 : 1 Brake horsepower: 162 @ 4400 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Hydraulic valve lifters Carburetor: Rochester model 7008006 2-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 115 inches Length: 195.6 inches 1958 Chevrolet Bel Air Impala (2 door sport coupe) Price: $2693 Weight: 3459 lbs Total Produced: 125,480 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 283 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.875 x 3.00 inches Compression Ratio: 8.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 185 @ 4600 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Hydraulic valve lifters Carburetor: Rochester 2-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 117.5 inches Length: 209.1 inches 1955 Dodge Custom Royal (2 door Lancer hardtop) Price: $2518 Weight: 3480 lbs Total Produced: 30,499 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 270 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.63 x 3.26 inches Compression Ratio: 7.6 : 1 Brake horsepower: 175 @ 4400 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Hydraulic valve lifters Carburetor: Stromberg 2-barrel Model WW3-124 Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 120 inches Length: 212.1 inches 1955 Ford Fairlane Victoria (2 door) Price: $2195 Weight: 3318 lbs Total Produced: 113,372 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 272 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.62 x 3.30 inches Compression Ratio: 7.6 : 1 Brake horsepower: 162 @ 4400 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Carburetor: Holley 2-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 115.5 inches Length: 198.5 inches 1955 Mercury Monterey (2 door hardtop coupe) Price: $2465 Weight: 3510 lbs Total Produced: 69,093 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 292 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.30 inches Compression Ratio: 7.60 : 1 Brake horsepower: 188 @ 4400 R.P.M. Carburetor: 4-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 119 inches Length: 206.3 inches 1958 Chevrolet Corvette (2 door sport coupe) Price: $3120.00 Weight: 2,870 lbs Total Produced: 3,467 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 265 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.00 inches Compression Ratio: 9.25 : 1 Brake horsepower: 210 @ 5200 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter Type WCFB 4-barrel Model 2419S Transmission: 3-speed manual floor shift Wheelbase: 102 inches Length: 168 inches 1958 Mercury custom (2 door sedan) Price: $2351 Weight: 3505 lbs Total Produced: 16,343 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 312 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.80 x 3.44 inches Compression Ratio: 8.0 : 1 Brake horsepower: 210 @ 4600 R.P.M. Carburetor: 4-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 119 inches Length: 206.4 inches 1957 Ford Fairlane 500 (2 door club sedan) Price: $2381 Weight: 3407 lbs Total Produced: 93,753 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 272 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.62 x 3.30 inches Compression Ratio: 8.6 : 1 Brake horsepower: 162 @ 4600 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Carburetor: Holley 2-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 118 inches Length: 207.7 inches 1957 Ford Fairlane (2 door sport coupe) Price: $3408 Weight: 3134 lbs Total Produced: 21,380 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 312 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.80 x 3.44 inches Compression Ratio: 9.7 : 1 Brake horsepower: 245 @ 4500 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Carburetor: Holley 4-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 102 inches Length: 181.4 inches 1961 Chevrolet Corvette (2 door convertible) Price: $3934 Weight: 2905 lbs Total Produced: 10,939 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 283 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.87 x 3.00 inches Compression Ratio: 9.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 230 @ 4800 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Hydraulic valve lifters Carburetor: Carter Type WCFB 4-barrel Model 3779178 Transmission: 3-speed manual floor shift Wheelbase: 102 inches Length: 177.2 inches 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200 (2 door hardtop coupe) Price: $2137 Weight: 2605 lbs Total Produced: 18,586 Engine: Cast iron Slant 6-cylinder with overhead valves Displacement: 170.9 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.406 x 3.125 inches Compression Ratio: 8.2 : 1 Brake horsepower: 101 @ 4400 R.P.M. 4 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter Ball and Ball Type BBS 1-barrel Model 3093S Transmission: 3-speed manual floor shift Wheelbase: 106.5 inches Length: 183.7 inches 1962 Dodge Polara (2 door hardtop coupe) Price: $3019 Weight: 3315 lbs Total Produced: N.A. Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 361 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 4.12 x 3.38 inches Compression Ratio: 9.0 : 1 Brake horsepower: 305 @ 4800 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Hydraulic valve lifters Carburetor: Carter AFB 3084S 4-barrel Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 116 inches Length: 202 inches 1962 Plymouth Savoy (2 door sedan) Price: $2206 Weight: 2930 lbs Total Produced: 18,825 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 317.6 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 3.91 x 3.94 inches Compression Ratio: 9.0 : 1 Brake horsepower: 230 @ 4400 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Solid valve lifters Carburetor: Carter Type BBD 2-barrel Model 3472S Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 116 inches Length: 202 inches 1963 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray (2 door fastback coupe) Price: $4257.00 Weight: 2859 lbs Total Produced: 10,594 Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves Displacement: 327 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 4.00 x 3.25 inches Compression Ratio: 10.5 : 1 Brake horsepower: 250 @ 4400 R.P.M. 5 main bearings Hydraulic valve lifters Carburetor: Carter Type WCFB 4-barrel model 3501S Transmission: 3-speed manual floor-shift Wheelbase: 98 inches Length: 175.2 inches 1963 Plymouth Valiant V-100 (2 door sedan) Price: $1910 Weight: 2515 lbs Total Produced: 32,761 Engine: Cast iron Inline 6-cylinder with overhead valves Displacement: 170.9 cu. in. Bore and Stroke: 4.406 x 3.125 inches Compression Ratio: 8.2 : 1 Brake horsepower: 101 @ 4400 1-barrel 4 main bearings Carburetor: Carter Type BBS 1-barrel Model 3675S Transmission: 3-speed manual Wheelbase: 106 inches Length: 186.2 inches